RH Pattern Update
Aug. 31st, 2010 09:42 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
callistotoniOn the sideless surcote problem: I got a quick polite response from my sideless surcote inquiry. They sent me a PDF of the instructions, and that answered the question I had about the straight-sided version shown on the pattern package. The answer to that is that you're supposed to draft that yourself.
But they did not understand my size problem. They said the pattern had been tested on hip measurements up to 50 inches, and that if I followed the instructions I would be successful.
However, I measured the pattern itself. For my size, the measurement of the pattern front/back piece at the hip point, from center front to side, is 7.25 inches. Multiply that by 4 and you get 29. Subtract 5/8 seam allowences and you get a smaller number. The hip measurement for this size is supposed to be 38 inches. Even when you add the gores, you don't gain nearly enough to make up the difference because the gores are triangular.
I wrote them back saying this, and said that while I believe them that they have tested this pattern in the past, that they take another look at it.
My cotehardie (look, I'm old school! ;-) ) is coming together. Laina helped fit it Sunday, and I've got it mostly together and the sleeves on. Had Jen tweek the surcote over this last night, so I have a working pattern for that. But, jeeze, this is going to be a warm outfit! I'm thinking that this will be an Estrella/March Crown/An Tir outfit. :-/
Musing on the different ways cotehardies can be made and fitted. I have a six-piece pattern that Etaine made me already. That pattern I, I believe, more flattering to my figure than this 4-peice-with-skirt-gore approach. But I'm enjoying exploring this latter approach for now. Hard to explain why, bu I think the attraction for me is that it's closer to the way things are cut in the WITTE book.
Furthermore, This RH pattern seems to place the skirt gores closer to the waist, so that it's not as fitted down through the hips. This bothers me on my figure, but I'd have to rip them out to fix it and I'm not sure it's worth the trouble this go-around. I've seen the Italian cotehardies have that sort of flare, higher and more under the bust. But I plan to put buttons down the front, and that's more a French/English/fittedthroughthehips style. I'm setting the issue aside for today and figure out what is going to make me happiest. I also think I'll tweak the sleave the next go-around, although this one is quite servicable
Also thinking about what a Viconti-hours-type-cotehardie pattern would look like. The most sailent feature of these are sleeves that are bunched up at the top and tight on the forarm.
Sigh. Very much in a mood to sew right now.
But they did not understand my size problem. They said the pattern had been tested on hip measurements up to 50 inches, and that if I followed the instructions I would be successful.
However, I measured the pattern itself. For my size, the measurement of the pattern front/back piece at the hip point, from center front to side, is 7.25 inches. Multiply that by 4 and you get 29. Subtract 5/8 seam allowences and you get a smaller number. The hip measurement for this size is supposed to be 38 inches. Even when you add the gores, you don't gain nearly enough to make up the difference because the gores are triangular.
I wrote them back saying this, and said that while I believe them that they have tested this pattern in the past, that they take another look at it.
My cotehardie (look, I'm old school! ;-) ) is coming together. Laina helped fit it Sunday, and I've got it mostly together and the sleeves on. Had Jen tweek the surcote over this last night, so I have a working pattern for that. But, jeeze, this is going to be a warm outfit! I'm thinking that this will be an Estrella/March Crown/An Tir outfit. :-/
Musing on the different ways cotehardies can be made and fitted. I have a six-piece pattern that Etaine made me already. That pattern I, I believe, more flattering to my figure than this 4-peice-with-skirt-gore approach. But I'm enjoying exploring this latter approach for now. Hard to explain why, bu I think the attraction for me is that it's closer to the way things are cut in the WITTE book.
Furthermore, This RH pattern seems to place the skirt gores closer to the waist, so that it's not as fitted down through the hips. This bothers me on my figure, but I'd have to rip them out to fix it and I'm not sure it's worth the trouble this go-around. I've seen the Italian cotehardies have that sort of flare, higher and more under the bust. But I plan to put buttons down the front, and that's more a French/English/fittedthroughthehips style. I'm setting the issue aside for today and figure out what is going to make me happiest. I also think I'll tweak the sleave the next go-around, although this one is quite servicable
Also thinking about what a Viconti-hours-type-cotehardie pattern would look like. The most sailent feature of these are sleeves that are bunched up at the top and tight on the forarm.
Sigh. Very much in a mood to sew right now.
![[identity profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/openid.png){kind=small}
Rockin' it old school, yo!
Date: 2010-08-31 05:05 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2010-08-31 05:37 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2010-08-31 05:53 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2010-09-01 04:38 am (UTC)When do you want to get together? I might have a Saturday in September free....
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Date: 2010-09-02 08:45 pm (UTC)